If you’re new to wiring or electrical procedures, seek help from someone knowledgeable.Īttach the thermostat switch to the cooler wall, somewhere near the light bulb. Don’t plug the incubator in until you’re sure the wiring is correct. Leave black in the middle, but feed the white wire off through the side.Īs with all things electrical, safety is a primary concern when building and using your incubator. ![]() Feed the black and white wires through the hole in the fixture box. Snip off the ground (green) wire and set it aside for later use. Using a razor knife, strip away about 8 inches of the outer casing of the grounded electrical cord. Now you’ll need to do some simple wiring for the light fixture and thermostat switch. If you think your incubator is getting too much of a draft, you can re-cover some of the ventilation holes with tape. You might opt to add more holes, even adding holes through the wooden outer case. There are no hard-and-fast rules, so this is another aspect you can experiment with. Using a drill and a 1⁄2-inch wood bit, carefully drill a series of 1⁄2-inch holes into the plastic foam. The unhatched chicks need air to breathe-they actually breathe right through their eggshells-so it’s important to add ventilation to your incubator. Use some clear tape to smoothly attach the edges of the glass in place. Cut a small “shelf” for the glass to sit on, so that when you’re all finished, the glass sits flush with the cooler lid. Then use a serrated knife to cut out the plastic foam slightly to the inside (1⁄4 inch), so that hole is a bit too small. ![]() Again, score the outline of the 5-by-7-inch piece of glass. Once that is complete, you can screw the housing box to the plywood case with 5⁄8-inch screws.Ī glass window on the top of the incubator is very handy for allowing you to monitor the temperature, humidity and eggs without opening the lid. You’ll also need to drill a 3⁄4-inch hole in the wooden case right behind the box to allow for the electrical cord. Then carefully cut this shape out of the plastic foam. On the back of the cooler, toward one side, use a pencil to score the rough shape of the light fixture housing box (as shown). Next, begin the slightly messy job of making some cuts to the cooler. Finally, use the two 11-by-27¼-inch pieces to add the long sides. Add the two 11-by-16½-inch plywood pieces to create the short sides. Use the 16½-by-26¼-inch piece of plywood as a base. Using wood glue and 1-inch nails, create a five-sided cube, leaving the top open.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |